Tag: toxic dyes

  • The Polluter Pays Principle: Case study of Noyyal River, Tamil Nadu

    The Polluter Pays Principle: Case study of Noyyal River, Tamil Nadu

    The meaning of this principle aligns well with the proverb, “You reap what you sow.” In fact, in Hindi, we have the phrase: “jaisi karni, vaisi bharni.”

    The Polluter Pays Principle is, in fact, a very straightforward concept. It simply means that the ones who make a mess have to clean it up. The Polluter Pays Principle is a tool for ensuring that those who are responsible for the pollution are the ones who bear the consequences. The incident of Bhopal made people very aware of this principle. The Polluter Pays Principle is now the standard globally.

    The Polluter Pays Principle is not limited to any specific type of pollution. For example, it could be the spilling of oil or chemicals, or releasing or contaminating water or air. According to the Polluter Pays Principle, the polluters are responsible for paying for the environmental damage caused, remediate the situation and undertake measures that would prevent the recurrence of the incident.

    The Case of Tirupur

    Let me introduce you to Tirupur in Tamil Nadu, also called the T-shirt capital of India. It is the city that produces a large percentage of our garments and distributes them all over the country and the world. This place has many textile factories. In fact, there are more than 700 dyeing and bleaching units. These units require a lot of water to operate and, as a result, they produce huge amounts of toxic, heavily polluted wastewater. 

    According to the Water Act of 1974, any industry which uses water as a raw material has to legally treat its wastewater before discharging it into any water body or onto land. The law goes as far as setting the quality standards that the treated water must meet to guarantee that it is still safe for the environment. But what the textile industry in Tirupur did was totally contrary to that.

    These factories dumped their concentrated toxic wastewater directly into the Noyyal River, a tributary of the Kaveri River. The river is a source of life, and the Noyyal is regarded as a holy river by the people. Thousands of people who lived on the river’s banks were dependent on it for their drinking water and irrigation needs. That river, which had nourished life, now got polluted with heavy metals such as lead, arsenic, and mercury, besides poisonous chemicals, colourants, organic substances, and cumbersome sludge. Even the water got blackened. 

    water pollution and dying of fishes and animal due to untreated industrial effluent

    The harm was not only to humans, as animals started dying, and fish in the river were completely wiped out, which further led to an imbalance and destruction of the entire ecosystem. Also, it contaminated the groundwater and local reservoirs. In the course of irrigation, this polluted water went down to the agricultural land, making the soil less fertile as the TDS (Total Dissolved Solids) level was extremely high. This situation turned into a nightmare for the farmers who depended on that soil. 

    The Extension of the Harm 

    About 30, 000 hectares of land were polluted. 68 villages. Nearly 30, 000 Families. Besides that, crops could not be grown. The productivity drastically fell. The economic loss to the village people was very high.

    Polluted river water entering agricultural fields. dark contaminated irrigation water flows from the polluted river into the farmland through irrigation channels.

    The Legal Battle Begins, 1996 

    Frustrated and running out of options, the farmers took their matter to the Madras High Court in 1996. Luckily, their cries for justice did not fall on deaf ears. The court, in 1998, gave a very direct ruling: the textile units have to check their pollution, compensate for the harm they have caused, and take steps to clean the contaminated reservoir. 

    What followed? Nothing. The industry totally ignored the court order. The condition of the Noyyal River has only got worse day by day. 

    The Fight Goes On, 2000 

    Towards the end of 2000, an association took a sample of the dam’s water. The results showed that there was no change since the court order. 

    The farmers came back with their demands: completely clean the river, stop dumping the waste into it and hold the polluters responsible. 

    The factory owners, this time, were the ones who started blaming. They said that so far, they have set up 17 Common Effluent Treatment Plants (CETPs), and the Reverse Osmosis plants to achieve Zero Liquid Discharge (ZLD) are being planned. The factories stated that when all the work is finished, 100% of the wastewater will be treated before being released and will comply with the set standards.

    The Court Demands Facts 

    The High Court, after understanding that the data was necessary to make a properly informed judgment, formed three expert committees. One of the committees was a water testing committee, which was required to travel to all the impacted areas, do water and soil quality testing, and work out the ground-level damage. The rest was an inspection committee which was supposed to go to every effluent treatment plant, observe and measure their operations, and subsequently work out the suitable fines. 

    polluter pay principle a sustainable framework

    Findings of the committees resulted in the following figures: 

    Compensation to farmers: Approximately Rs. 25 crores, for more than 8 years of misery. 
    Penalty for factories: Several hundred crores in fines, cleanup costs, and treatment infrastructure. 

    The Factory Owners Resist 2009 

    The factory owners, scared of these figures, filed a petition in the Supreme Court of India in 2009, stating that these numbers were extremely high and not backed by facts. The Supreme Court did its own deep investigation by putting together an inspection team to assess independently every aspect of the situation.

    The Judgement 

    Next, the court gave its decision. 

    Victims who were farmers would be given around Rs. 25 crores, and the court acknowledged their sufferings on a grand scale, officially. 

    Factories were exposed to a financial burden of more than Rs. 800 crores. 

    Besides ordering them to implement the Zero Liquid Discharge system, factories were directed to clean up the environmental damage, or they would be closed permanently. 

    The decision sent a strong message which shone far beyond Tirupur: one cannot expect economic growth when the environment is destroyed. 

    The Polluter Pays Principle is the law of the land. 

    Thirteen Years. One River. One Fight.From 1996 to 2009, thirteen years. 

    timeline of the case

    Farmers did not surrender. Judges did not surrender. There was a delay in the delivery of justice, but it was not denied. 

    Speaking about the Noyyal River, has it turned blue again? Are the farmers given their compensation? Do the factories have ZLD? This is a different story, namely of implementation, supervision and follow-up. 

    However, 2009, the day the Supreme Court ordered, was the day the battle for justice was won.

  • The True Cost of a Cotton T-Shirt: Environmental Impact & What You’re Really Paying For

    The True Cost of a Cotton T-Shirt: Environmental Impact & What You’re Really Paying For

    You’re probably wearing a cotton T-shirt right now.
    Maybe it feels soft because you’ve washed it many times. Maybe it’s new and still has a hint of factory smell. Perhaps it’s the shirt you wear to the gym or for sleeping. 

    But have you ever thought about what it takes to create that simple item of clothing?

    Behind that soft fabric is a story most of us never see. Producing a single cotton T-shirt requires about 2,700 liters of water. This simple piece of clothing has made textiles one of the most polluting industries in the world.

    Let’s look at the life cycle of a cotton T-shirt, from the cotton field all the way to the landfill, and see what happens at each stage.

    1. It Starts in the Field: Cotton Farming

    Let’s begin at the start: the field.

    Cotton is a very thirsty crop. In India, most cotton farms depend on monsoon rains. Climate change has made these rainfall patterns unpredictable. When the rains don’t come, farmers rely on groundwater to save their crops. It drains aquifers that whole communities depend on for drinking water. In severe cases, it can make drought conditions worse.

    Cotton is highly vulnerable to pests, especially cotton bollworms. Farmers rely on synthetic pesticides and chemical fertilizers to protect their plants.

    Flowchart showing environmental impact of cotton farming and water shortage.

    Organic cotton farming avoids syntahetic pesticides completely, yet conventional cotton still dominates the global market.

    And at this point, the T-shirt is still on the farm.

    2. Turning Cotton Into Fabric: Energy-Intensive Manufacturing

    After harvesting, cotton moves to factories.

    The fibers are separated from seeds through ginning.

    They are spun into yarn and then woven or knitted into fabric. After that, the fabric goes through chemical treatments and heat processes to become softer, smoother, and whiter. 

    Carbon emissions from manufacturing of a cotton t-shirt.  
process of making yarn from fabric

    Each of these steps uses energy.

    Textile manufacturing produces 2 billion tons of carbon dioxide emissions each year, making it a major contributor to pollution.

    3. The Most Toxic Stage: Dyeing and Finishing

    This is when your T-shirt gains its color, softness, and the “won’t shrink” label. It’s also the stage where the environmental impact increases.

    Textile dyeing uses a lot of water and relies heavily on chemicals. 

    Environmental impact from textile dyeing
fast fashion pollution

    Untreated waste water flows directly into rivers and lakes. This causes oxygen loss in water, making fish suffocate. Bright dyes block sunlight, killing aquatic plants and harming ecosystems. Toxic chemicals accumulate in the food chain.

    After dyeing, the fabric is cut and sewn to make the T-shirt you buy. 

    Garment manufacturing often comes with a heavy human cost. Many workers face tough conditions, long hours, and low pay. These issues show the real price behind the clothes we wear every day. 

    If a T-shirt has a crooked seam or small color difference, it might get rejected and get into landfill or incinerated. All the water, energy, chemicals, and labor put into it are wasted. 

    Some rejected shirts are sold cheaply in bulk, but many more end up incinerated or in landfills. Every T-shirt you wear comes from someone’s labor. That’s worth considering.

    4. Transportation and Sales

    Most T-shirts are made in developing countries and sold in wealthy nations. This means they cover long distances before arriving at a store or your home. Packaging, shipping, freight, warehousing, and distribution all increase the garment’s carbon footprint. 

    Moving millions of garments across oceans and continents needs fuel, infrastructure, and energy.

    5. The Use Phase: Your Habits Matter

    What happens after you buy it often has a longer-lasting effect. Every time you wash it, especially with hot water, tumble dry it, or iron it, you raise its environmental impact.

    Research shows that the use phase makes up a large part of a garment’s total carbon emissions and energy use during its lifetime. That’s why your laundry habits matter more than you might think.

    6. End of Use: Landfill Challenge

    Ultimately, every T-shirt ends up at the last phase of its lifespan.

    Some are donated.
    A small portion (<1%) is recycled.
    But most go to landfills.

    Here’s the irony.

    textile waste landfill

    Cotton is a natural fiber that produces methane (a potent greenhouse gas) when it decomposes without oxygen in a landfill. 

    So even when you throw it away, your T-shirt still adds to climate change.

    Now multiply this by 2 billion.

    About 2 billion cotton T-shirts are sold worldwide every year. 

    Now multiply everything we’ve discussed by that number.
    Billions of liters of water flow through rivers and seas every day.
    Tons of toxic chemicals
    Massive carbon emissions are a major cause of climate change and harm our planet’s health. 

    Reducing these emissions is crucial to protect the environment and ensure a sustainable future for everyone.

    What You Can Do: 

    Sustainable Alternatives offers simple ways to replace everyday items with eco-friendly options. 

    Choosing reusable bags, conserving water, and using energy-efficient appliances can reduce waste and save resources.
    Switching to sustainable products helps protect the environment while still meeting daily needs.
    Small changes in how we buy, use, and get rid of clothing can make a real difference. Look for GOTS, OEKO-TEX, or Fair Trade certifications.

    Sustainable clothing practices for a greener future

    Fast fashion may seem affordable, but its true cost goes beyond price tags. A cotton T-shirt looks simple. It feels simple. It’s usually inexpensive. Yet behind it is a chain of environmental and human impacts that spans continents. The industry needs a systemic overhaul, and that’s clear. Awareness is where change begins. 

    So next time you pick up a T-shirt, pause and reflect.

    References

    1. https://file.scirp.org/Html/4-8301582_17027.htm
    2. https://earth.org/fast-fashions-detrimental-effect-on-the-environment/
    3. https://www.fashionrevolution.org/the-true-cost-of-colour-the-impact-of-textile-dyes-on-water-systems/
    4. https://www.silkandwillow.com/blogs/inspiration/the-hidden-cost-of-color-toxic-chemicals-in-textile-dyes
    5. https://jepha.springeropen.com/articles/10.1186/s42506-024-00167-7
    6. https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2452072119300413